From the past and into the present, a recently modernized market and liquor store on Sound Avenue is beginning its next chapter — and its new owner is excited to become part of the North Fork community.
Bread and Butter Market & Bottle owner Diana Roesch DiMenna remembers moving to Riverhead three years ago and driving back and forth along Sound Avenue thinking there was nowhere convenient to stop for groceries. Then she pulled into Wegert’s, a longtime North Fork deli that had been a fixture for decades.
“They had an old-fashioned coffee machine and pastries in cellophane, and I thought … this place should be thriving.”
Her next stop was a meeting with a local attorney, where she floated the idea that perhaps the owner might be open to selling. Five days later, a For Sale sign appeared on the property, which also included a small liquor store and parking lot.
With no retail experience, DiMenna signed the papers.
“My kids rolled their eyes,” she said. “But I said this community needs its own convenience store, so people don’t have to drive to Southold or Riverhead to get what they need.”
‘A happy place’
DiMenna became the new owner in February, and the newly named Bread and Butter & Bottle opened on rain-soaked Memorial Day weekend.
On Monday, a steady stream of customers moved through the freshly painted, newly sided light-green building. Outside, bouquets from local flower farms greeted visitors alongside bright red and pink mandevillas lining the new concrete sidewalk.
Inside, the smell of freshly baked cinnamon rolls blended with brewed coffee. Reflecting the store’s contemporary feel, a playlist curated by her five mostly local young staffers played in the background.
“We want it to be a happy place, and the music says it’s fun to be here.”
The front right corner of the store serves as a coffee, tea and bakery bar, accented by fresh flowers and anchored by a high-end espresso machine offering a wide variety of milk options and flavorings. Nearby, shelves display bread baked onsite alongside locally made sourdough from North Fork Chocolate.
Across the store is the gelato section, featuring a dozen flavors — all created in-house using mostly locally sourced ingredients.
“We’ll offer them through the summer, and because this area of the store is seasonal, in the fall we’ll switch to pies and hot chocolate and probably Halloween and Christmas specialties,” DiMenna said.
Chef-crafted sandwiches fill refrigerated cases next to the register. Wooden shelves hold cereals, pasta, paper goods, diapers and even wrapping paper.
Critterville crops
Produce offerings include mushrooms from Mattituck Mushroom, alongside asparagus, lettuce, rhubarb and kale grown a few miles west at her daughter Claire’s 69.5-acre Sound Avenue Critterville farm, where rescued animals are cared for and vegetables are grown for Bread and Butter.
Very conscious of pricing, DiMenna said she wants to ensure no one is priced out.
“We’re not a gas station convenience store and we’re not Citarella’s. We want to keep it reasonable; we want the trade parade to stop here.”
After nearby farmers mentioned foods their workers preferred, DiMenna said those items were stocked the next day.
Her second daughter, Tess DiMenna, 23, is the other half of the mother-daughter partnership, reflecting the North Fork tradition of generations following family into business.
A college student, Tess plans to work weekends at the register.
“This just fell into her lap and it made sense and felt natural for us to work together,” she said.
Both said it was important for the shop to reflect the area’s farming history and deep sense of community.
“It’s really heartwarming. Our love is now a physical space.”
‘Old-fashioned’
Over the opening weekend, customers curious about the transformation lingered and chatted with neighbors inside. Many approached DiMenna to share memories of visiting the store as children.
“Then they shared lots of stories about Mrs. Wegert and her dog.”
Shopper Catherine Tumminello of Jamesport remembered stopping at Wegert’s for Gatorade in high school.
“Now it’s really cute, very adorable. It’s nice to be able to stop here and not go far to get a sandwich.”
Michael Schlesinger, who spends summers in Mattituck, stopped in after driving by.
“So, I came in to see what they have and I think I just have to pick up one of their blueberry muffins.”
Visiting Riverhead with his family for the day, Zack Goldberg of Sag Harbor was curious enough to stop.
“It’s a new place, but it’s like an old-fashioned store that I wanted to check out.”
Jessica Lobiak of Riverhead, holding one of the store’s bottled house-made green juices, predicted the revitalized market would be a success.
“It’s such a cute spot, the prices are good and I think it will do well in the summer.”
Homemade desserts
Among the early favorites are DiMenna’s homemade canned desserts.
“We can it ourselves and we give you an old-fashioned wooden spoon with it, which people love.”
She added that all packaging — including plastic, glass and aluminum — is biodegradable or compostable.
Reflecting on the four-month process from concept to opening, DiMenna praised Riverhead officials.
“It was delightful working with the Planning and Building departments. When I said I wanted to revive the buildings, they made it smooth. They helped so much.”
Wegert’s aging walk-in cooler received a mechanical overhaul and is now stocked with staples including milk, soda, frozen dinners, juice and toiletries. The only eggs sold are sourced locally from Zilnicki’s Farm in Riverhead.
The renovation included new windows, upgraded electrical and plumbing systems and restoration of Wegert’s original outdoor sign.
‘A pop-up book’
The unusual angled window in the soon-to-open Bottle section remains.
“It’s a lovely historical building and I wanted to preserve that. I didn’t erase history because I know it means something to the people here.”
Her plan is to feature a different North Fork winery in the front window each month.
Ultimately, DiMenna said the goal is simple: offer a convenient, local alternative to larger grocery stores.
“I want to provide a service and make lives easier. You can get a really good egg sandwich here close to home and I hope it will be a community hub.”
She returned repeatedly to the welcome she received after buying the property.
A film producer by trade, DiMenna said opening the business felt like another kind of production.
“This is like a pop-up book. I had an idea and collaborated with a large group of great people to bring it to life.”
‘So much love’
Her first experience with North Fork’s sense of community came last Thanksgiving, when Halo, her Great Pyrenees, jumped the fence and disappeared.
“People we never met searched for her. They put up signs and spread the word on Facebook. There is so much love here.”
Halo returned safely three days later.
Tess DiMenna summed up the family’s vision:
“The store is our love letter to the North Fork.”
Bread and Butter is now open seven days a week: 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekends.