It was commonly thought on the East End that microbreweries might one day be as numerous as local wineries. The reality has been somewhat different. Some microbreweries have left the local landscape like a glass of IPA on a steamy July afternoon. Some new ones have emerged. Veteran brewers are establishing a presence. The North Fork brew scene may be challenging but it has not gone flat.
“There are a few things happening,” said Stacey Finkelstein, a marketing professor at Stony Brook University’s School of Business when asked about the shrinking microbrew phenomenon on the East End and who conducts research focusing on “marketing and consumer well-being.”
“Consumer tastes are evolving,” she noted. “Younger people are not drinking beer as much as prior generations. New products like hard seltzers, canned cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks have entered the market. And there’s affordability. Is a craft beer a luxury? People are becoming choosy on how they spend.”
Why should we be concerned? Breweries are local “economic engines” responsible for numerous visits and often help to generate additional tourism revenue.
“The breweries have been tremendous in driving traffic to our downtown,” said Connie Lassandro, Riverhead Chamber of Commerce president. “They generate foot traffic which often spills over into other local businesses. But competition has become a factor.”
Major economic force
While local microbrew business figures are not available, statewide, New York’s craft brewing industry boasts a massive $4.8 billion economic impact and is the second-largest craft beer market in the United States, according to Gov. Kathy Hochul’s office. With over 500 microbreweries, farm breweries and brew pubs, New York is second only to California in volume. By comparison, there are only about 150 microbreweries in New Jersey.
The sector is a major economic engine, supporting roughly 22,000 jobs statewide and annually producing over 1.4 million barrels. While the national craft beer industry has recently faced production declines and an increase in brewery closures, New York has demonstrated remarkable resilience, with some exceptions.
“The dynamics are tough,” said Greg Doroski, brewer and industry consultant, who is also a Suffolk County legislator. “Some have left the market but new players have entered. There’s been minimal contraction. We’re past any bubble stage. The local industry has leveled.”
Nationally, the U.S. hop industry has scaled back with acreage and yield dropping 15% to 20% due to declining beer consumption, changing consumer preferences and excess inventory according to the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture. Production of hops, a key beer ingredient, is down 13% from 2025 and 25% from 2022. Further declines are expected through 2026.
For beer, microbrews enjoyed a slight edge as overall U.S. beer production and imports were down 5.7% in 2025, while craft brewer volume sales declined by 4%, slightly increasing small and independent brewers’ share of the U.S. beer market by volume to 13.4%, according to data collected by the Brewers Association, a national trade group that represents small and independent brewers.
“The East End has a relatively short tourist season and the high cost of living here makes it challenging to find a stable workforce,” adds Doroski. “Some are contracting production to bigger breweries to keep costs down. Making good beer is not enough.”
More than just beer
In response to changing consumer demands, numerous beer variations have entered the local market, including nonalcoholic (NA) varieties, fruit- and chocolate-flavored beers. Seasonal brews also populate what’s frequently a rotating selection.
Beer aficionados tend to favor bold, unique and nuanced flavors, particularly those with a touch of citrus as well as traditional styles such as pilsners, stouts and lagers. Others are willing to pay a premium for product made with special ingredients or that is organic and ethically or responsibly sourced.
“We’re partly in the entertainment business while dealing with the emergence of beer snobs,” said Doug Pearsall, brewmaster at Eastern Front Brewing Co. in Mattituck who exclusively uses European hops in his beers. “People check listings to see what’s happening at each venue. You’ve got to be creative. They want beer-and-food pairings, live music, poetry readings.”
Finkelstein agrees.
“Breweries may need to be innovative and take charge of the situation.” Some of her recommendations include creative menus, pairing promotions and possibly using so-called loss leaders, a price promotion to attract customers.
Rob Kurtz, operations director at the recently renamed and renovated MoonFish Brewery in Riverhead said a big surprise has been how the variety of beer styles has been received. “Everyone has a beer of their own. We still sell a lot of IPA but the other varieties have each found fans and have kept pace.”
The experience economy
MoonFish Brewery, which has a full bar and restaurant as well as an in-depth website while offering a river view, serves beer drinkers as well as families enjoying a meal together and features minimal entertainment.
“We’re selling more than beer,” Kurtz told the Sun. “Coming here is something of an experience. Customers want a little bit of everything. The cocktails keep pace with the beer.” Reservations can be made online.
The original appeal of craft or micro-brewed beers is that they offer something more than a mass-market product. Often it is about promoting a so-called lifestyle or culture, making it refreshingly different. So-called experiential marketing — i.e., events — can build a following. Technology, to form a local search presence and keep in touch with existing customers, can augment traditional marketing efforts, making it easy for customers to find breweries. But nothing will top good beermaking.
“The ultimate test for a beer is if you like it. Nothing else should matter,” said Eastern Front’s Pearsall, a self-described beer purist and traditionalist as well as 20-year veteran brewer.
“People may be drinking less. Cannabis and gummies have entered the equation but these are likely fads,” he said. “Beer has got a thousand-plus year track record. That’s staying power.”
Changes on tap
The School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell University in Ithaca, NY, has been working with the Hop Growers of New York to breed a high-yielding, disease-resistant and aromatic hop that performs well in New York state and can be marketed by brewers as New York’s hop. Presently, nearly all of the hops used by NY-based brewers are bred and grown in the Pacific Northwest.
Joseph J. Finora is the author of Red Like Wine, the North Fork Harbor Vineyard Murders. He also likes beer. He is not a trustee.